一个不为人知的布拉格，古与今并生
My Hidden Prague
By EVAN RAIL March 16,
STRAINS of soaring voices echoed down the well-worn cobblestones
of Prague’s Old Town. For days, leaving the neo-Baroque library
where I write, I’d heard the same music spilling down Bartolomejska
Street — though like a ghost it always seemed to disappear just as
I approached. Making a guess, I stuck my head through the doorway
of what seemed to be an abandoned building with peeling plaster and
dingy windows. Inside, weird paintings decorated the walls, and
rough-hewn furniture had been cobbled together. As I entered a
long, dark room, a chorus of young women returned to their task:
knocking out a spot-on, spine-tingling version of Mozart’s Requiem
in the middle of a lazy afternoon.
悠扬的歌声在布拉格旧城历经沧桑的鹅卵石老路上回荡。连日来，我在新巴洛克风格的图书馆中写作，每每离去之时，总听到这同一个旋律，在巴特罗米卡(Bartolomejska)街上飘扬，却又在我靠近时如魅影般消却。凭着直觉，我走近一座看起来已经荒弃的楼门口。墙皮斑驳，玻璃残破。我探头向里张望，怪诞的画作挂在墙上，粗制的家具胡乱堆在一起。当我走进一间狭长而幽暗的屋子，一群年轻的女子重新唱起莫扎特的《安魂曲》，在这个慵懒的下午，音律精准，扣人心弦。
So many scenes in Prague display similar touches of the city’s
standard-issue strangeness, a quotidian surrealism that often
blends the elegant with the near-hallucinatory, that makes the
modern Czech capital a hard-to-understand place, especially for
outsiders like myself. But after 12 years of living here, I’ve come
to make the city my own, figuring out how Prague’s various parts
fit together and finding charming attractions and unexpected beauty
just about everywhere I look.
许许多多发生在布拉格的情景，都显现着这座城市约定俗成的怪诞格调，她司空见惯的超现主义，优雅非凡又近乎迷幻，让今日的捷克首都成为一个难以诠释的地方，尤其是对于我这样的外来客人。然而至今12年的旅居，让我也赋予了布拉格自己的视角，领悟了她看似庞杂的种种是如何契合归一，并时时处处偶遇她迷人的美丽。
This, despite having settled in one of the most overexposed
parts of the city: its historic center. Less than five minutes by
foot from Namesti Republiky and its immense Art Nouveau palaces,
and 10 minutes from the Gothic steeples of Old Town Square, my
wife, Nina, and I set up house among the most romantic views, as
well as the biggest busloads of tourists, the lamest of souvenir
shops and the most inauthentic of pubs.
尽管位于城里游客必去的历史中心区，距共和国广场和那连绵的新艺术风格宫殿步行不到五分钟，距旧城广场的哥特式尖塔也只有十分钟，我与妻子尼娜(Nina)就在这浪漫至极的风景中，在这最大的游客集散地、俗气的旅游纪念品商店和游客成群的酒吧之间，筑起了自己的家。
Ocean/Corbis
布拉格伏尔塔瓦河(Vltava River)上的桥梁
And yet I quickly got over the downsides of living “downtown.”
Instead, what I discovered amid all the gimcrackery were overlooked
joys&that most tourists probably never saw: a kind
of hidden Prague, both old and new, where every day meant another
elegant statue or beautiful facade I’d never noticed before,
another renovated park or refurbished embankment, another cool new
bar or restaurant that was not yet in the guidebooks.
虽然如此，我还是很快忘记了住在闹市区的闹心，并在浮华虚景之间，觅到了大多数游人可能都不曾留意的惊喜：一个不为人知的布拉格，古与今并生，在这里，每一天都意味着发现一座新的优雅雕塑，一面精美的建筑外墙，或是一个重新修缮的公园或路堤，又或是一家新开的、还没来得及被旅游指南发现的优质餐厅或酒吧。
Inspired by Vzorkovna, the cafe where I had encountered the
angelic chorus, I decided to spend a few days tracking down
Prague’s best hidden attractions and new developments, or at least
those that were unknown or new to me.
受“展厅”餐吧
(Vzorkovna)启发——就是我找到那个天籁之音唱诗班的地方，我决定也花几天时间，去探寻布拉格隐秘的绝佳去处和新景点。
Based on my own experience, I’d recommend not skipping the
tourist zone. Avoid the Royal Way, the city’s historic coronation
route, to be sure, but don’t miss the city’s newest brewpub,
Pivovar U Tri Ruzi, which opened right off the route earlier this
year. Meaning “At the Three Roses,” the pub can be hard to spot
among the area’s galleries and bars. But the handful of beers
produced here are real head-turners, including a solid, almost
sugary Vienna lager and an excellent polotmavy, or half-dark. The
burgers here are some of the city’s best.
根据个人经验，我建议不要省略著名的旅游景区。当然还是最好避开过去皇帝加冕游行的皇家大道，但别错过大道近旁今年新开的自酿啤酒吧
“Pivovar U Tri Ruzi”。
名字意为“于三枝玫瑰”，酒吧在这个区的众多画廊和酒吧中并不是那么好找。而其自酿的几种啤酒确是令人称叹，其中包括一款酯香醇厚、略带甜味的维也纳拉格，和一款美妙的polotmavy，在捷克语中即为“半黑（啤）”的意思。这家的汉堡也有滋有味，堪称全城最佳之列。
And take the warnings about places like Wenceslas Square with a
grain of salt — at least during the daytime. Prague is a very safe
city, and many of the grittiest areas — including Wenceslas — are
finally getting cleaned up. When our family happened by the square
one morning this spring, we discovered that the western half had
just gone car-free, creating a huge additional amount of space for
shoppers and strollers, and transforming much of Vaclavak, as
locals call it, into a much friendlier area for pedestrians. After
visiting the city’s best spirits shop,
to track down a
— &the bizarre, pre-Velvet
Revolution Czech single malt released a couple of years ago to rave
reviews — &you can step out into the broad,
car-free street with impunity and admire the grand facades on
either side. A similar situation is under way at Hlavni Nadrazi,
Prague’s main train station, where a renovation is finally shaking
off the last of its Communist-era d&cor.
对于瓦茨拉夫广场(Wenceslas
Square)治安不好的警告，也不必过于在意——至少白天的情况尚佳。布拉格是一个非常安全的城市，而且很多包括瓦茨拉夫广场在内的问题区域，正在逐步得到治理。今年春天我们全家经过这里时，发现广场西侧刚刚划为步行区，为步行购物的人们增加了大片活动区域，也将瓦茨拉瓦克（Vaclavak，当地人对这个区域的称呼）更新了面貌，成为更适宜行人游逛的地方。走进布拉格最好的一家酒屋克亥多施洛奇（捷克语名Kratochvilovci），寻一瓶上好的榔头威士忌(Hammer
Whiskey)，这种奇特的、天鹅绒革命前的捷克单一麦芽威士忌，几年前一投放市场，即受到如潮的好评。从这里出来，你即可踏上宽广自由的步行街，畅然欣赏两侧宏伟的建筑。布拉格中央火车站(Hlavni
Nadrazi)也处于类似的规划整修中，而翻新后的火车站也将摆脱布拉格仅存的那一丝共产主义年代的建筑风格。
Despite the central position of the Vltava River, which threads
through the city like a needle, the waterfront has long been
overlooked. Lately, however, you can find a lot happening along the
river, from the bustling Saturday-morning farmers’ market along the
Rasinovo Embankment in New Town to
one of the city’s best
spots for live music, on the other side in the Smichov
neighborhood. Here, great international acts like John Abercrombie
and the Legendary Pink Dots, as well as local favorites like Tony
Ackerman and the Kasparin Quartet have performed in the three and a
half years since it opened.
再说到伏尔塔瓦河(Vltava
River)，尽管它位于城市中心，犹如针线将布拉格穿起，但是河堤的美化却一直被城市忽略。但是近来，你会发现两岸变得生动起来，从每周六上午新城区哈西诺瓦堤岸(Rasinovo)热闹的自由市场，再到对岸施密兹可夫(Smichove)一带、布拉格听现场音乐的最佳去处爵士码头。在爵士码头开放的三年半时间里，从国际级的约翰·阿伯克龙比(John
Abercrombie)、传奇的粉色斑点乐队(Legendary Pink Dots)，到本地深受欢迎的乐手托尼·阿克尔曼(Tony
Ackerman)、卡斯巴林纳四重奏(Kasparin Quartet)都曾在此地演出。
When I stopped by Jazz Dock for an after-work cocktail this
summer, I was as amazed by the club’s cool waterside location as I
was by the refurbished playground I spotted from its riverside
patio. Called Detsky Ostrov, or Children’s Island, and connected to
the embankment by a footbridge, the grounds included great new
sandboxes, jungle gyms, swings and slides, with plenty of shady
trees and lots of benches for parents. Bigger kids were trying out
their first skateboards in a small skatepark, and members of the
city’s Nigerian community playing pick-up soccer games offered to
let me join in. Nina and I would have to bring our children by
sometime soon, I thought.
今年夏天，我下班后来到爵士码头小饮，即被位于这个风水宝地的音乐俱乐部的美妙所吸引，从河堤露台望去，又发现一片翻新重建的儿童游乐场，十分惊喜。游乐场由步行桥连接至河堤，建有砂箱、攀登架、秋千、滑梯等设施，绿树成荫，并有长椅供家长休憩。大一点的孩子们正在小型滑板场尝试着自己的第一块滑板，当地的尼日利亚裔人在一旁踢着足球，还邀请我加入。我当时想，尼娜和我应该带孩子们来这里玩玩。
While Prague’s public transportation works extremely well and
crooked cabdrivers are much less common than they used to be, the
best way to get a feel for the city is in a pair of comfortable
shoes. My own walk to the library each morning is so full of new
sights that I often have to stop myself from taking more pictures
or from writing down another new address. After dropping off my son
at his preschool in the Petrska neighborhood, I walk the breadth of
Old Town, from its northeast to its southwest corner, taking in the
full sweep of old Prague.
布拉格的公共交通四通八达，不守规矩的出租车司机也比以前大大减少，但我觉得，体验布拉格最好的方式，还是穿上一双舒适的鞋，悠然地走街串巷。我每天早上步行至图书馆的途中，总能邂逅一些新的美景，我发现自己总是不停拍照或记下新的地址。每次我把儿子送到帕特罗丝卡(Petrska)一带的幼儿园之后，便会步行斜穿旧城区，从东北角一直走到西南角，将昔日的布拉格一览无余。
Without adding more than a couple of minutes to my 20-minute
commute, I can explore innumerable variations of my journey:
sometimes I stroll directly down Na Prikope, the city’s main
shopping strip, dodging the tour groups and buskers and taking
notice of newly opened stores downtown like the Lavmi boutique at
Truhlarska 18, which sells unusual, locally designed wallpaper,
lamps and other housewares.
只要在我每天20分钟的步行时间上再加几分钟，我就可以沿着很多不同的路径探寻新奇。有时，我会沿着那帕里克帕大街(Na
Prikope)一直走下去，这是布拉格的主要购物街。我一边躲闪旅游团和街头艺人，一边记下市中心新开的小店，比如，位于图赫拉斯卡18号(Truhlarska
18)的拉夫米精品店(Lavmi)，这里专卖本土设计师设计的另类壁纸、灯饰等家居饰品。
Sometimes I walk down rustic, unmodernized streets like
Provaznicka and V Kotcich, enjoying views that look just like the
rest of the city did before the Velvet Revolution. Often I take one
of the many mysi diry (mouse holes), the little passageways that
run between Old Town streets like Celetna and Stupartska. If you
see a gate or a doorway at a crook in the road like the two at the
end of Michalska Street, check if it’s unlocked. In all likelihood,
you’ll find a hidden pathway.
有时，我也会走在普罗瓦内斯卡(Provaznicka)和夫卡西斯(V
Kotcich)这样陈旧的街道，恍若身临天鹅绒革命之前的市景。我也时常穿行旧城区数不尽的“老鼠洞”（当地人管它们叫“mysi
diry”），这是一种狭窄的通道，连接着像旧城区萨俄迪娜(Celetna)和斯图巴特卡(Stupartska)这样的街道。如果你看到一条街道的凹口处有一扇门或是门洞，像米哈尔斯卡(Michalska)街尽头的那两个那种，不妨看看门上锁没有。你将极有可能探寻到了一条密道。
Many such paths offer wonderful views, as I discovered when I
struggled to find something that seemed as of it would be
impossible to miss: a new walking and biking trail in the Zizkov
neighborhood, after hearing it described recently by Pitr, a
neighborhood friend.
很多这样的小路都呈现奇美的景色。我在寻找一条我以为很容易找到的薛斯高夫(Zizkov)一带的散步骑车小路时，由衷地感受到这一点，当时我的邻居朋友彼得(Pitr)向我这样描述：
“It’s very long, and fairly private,” Pitr said. “But the
interesting thing is that it’s almost completely hidden. If you
don’t know exactly where it is, you will never find it.”
“这条小路很长，也比较私密，可以说几乎完全隐秘。如果你不是目标明确地找，肯定永远也不会发现。”
I made the mistake of not taking Pitr completely at his word,
and after fruitlessly searching the area for half an hour, I gave
him a call. Armed with fresh instructions, I backtracked toward
Hlavni Nadrazi, near the top of Wenceslas Square, then walked east
up Seifertova Street.
我对彼得的提醒并不以为然，在找寻了半个小时无果后，只得给他打去了求助电话。这回，带着充足的信息情报，我朝着中央火车站的方向往回走，一直顶到瓦茨拉夫广场，然后沿赛费托娃街(Seifertova)一路往东走。
Passing under a railway bridge, I saw an elderly couple walking
an even older dachshund and followed their route up an embankment
to what had once been a small railway branch line. Hemmed in by
elder trees and lined in some sections with herb gardens, it had
been paved the previous year, creating a path directly behind some
of Zizkov’s most beautiful 19th-century apartment buildings. The
voyeuristic views onto each pavlac, or communal balcony, offer a
clear sense of what life — &hanging laundry,
chatting with neighbors — &on those balconies must
have been like 50, 60 or 100 years ago.
穿过铁路桥时，我看到一对老夫妇在溜一只看起来比他们还老的腊肠犬。我沿着他们的路线走过河堤，来到一条昔日的铁路支线上。这里周围树木环立，花圃井井有条，近年来这里的路重新铺过，就在薛斯高夫一带最美的19世纪公寓楼的后面，一路尽览。如果你窥向楼中的公用阳台（在当地叫pavlac），可以想见五六十年甚至一百年前这里的居民在阳台上晾晒衣物、闲暇聊天的生活场景。
Even natives can be surprised by the city, as I discovered when
I decided to check out new developments in the Karlin neighborhood
with my Prague-born, Toronto-based friend, Matej. Before we had
found our apartment in the center, Nina and I had originally wanted
to live in the area, which is northeast of Old Town and south of
the Vltava. Karlin was cheap and somewhat rundown, but with great
architecture and a very real neighborhood feel that stemmed from
its narrow streets and its setting between the tree-covered
hillside and the river.
说起布拉格的变化，就连本地人也会感到惊异。这是我决定与布拉格出生、多伦多定居的朋友马捷(Matej)一起去探索卡林(Karlin)一带的新变化时发现的有趣现象。在我和尼娜找到我们现在的住处之前，我们曾经想要住在卡林。这个位于旧城区东北角、伏尔塔瓦河南面的区域，比较便宜，也多少有一点老旧，但是建筑宏美，窄窄的街道绿茵连绵，依山傍水，饶有兴味。
MATEJ and I were both shocked to see how much had changed in
recent years. We started by having lunch at the Red Hot Chilli
restaurant, opened in May of last year and perhaps the best of the
many new places in Prague specializing in Vietnamese cuisine,
offering crisp and aromatic summer rolls and sweet-and-sour bowls
of bun bo nam bo, a beef and noodle salad, right on the district’s
main street, Krizikova.
对于卡林这几年的变化，我和马捷都很惊讶。我们先在“红辣椒”餐厅(Red Hot
Chilli)吃了午饭。这家去年五月开张的越南餐厅，在全布拉格众多新开的越南特色餐厅中，可算上佳。坐在这个区域的主街科里奇科瓦(Krizikova)旁，吃上一个口感香脆的夏卷，一碗酸酸甜甜的“bun
bo nam bo”牛肉米粉沙拉，清新美味。
Afterward, we walked over to the park in front of the sprawling
elementary school on Lyckovo Namesti — &my vote
for the prettiest square in Prague, though a complete surprise to
Matej — &and admired its immense, Mucha-style
murals dating from the early 20th century. On some of the nearby
buildings, we could still spot a few scars from the high-water line
of the flood of 2002, but many had been recently repainted in pink,
yellow and other flowery pastels.
随后，我们溜达到利兹克沃广场(Lyckovo
Namesti)上一所占地面积很大的小学前面的公园。这个我心目中布拉格最美的广场，对马捷而言是个大大的惊喜，他细细欣赏着这里可追溯到20世纪早期的慕夏风格的大幅壁画。在一些近旁的建筑墙体上，我们还能依稀看到2002年洪水留下的水位痕迹，但大部分都已粉刷了粉色、黄色或其他绚丽的色彩。
After taking a few photographs, we stopped by the neighborhood’s
new coffeehouse star, Muj Salek Kavy, where we stopped for a
knockout cup of estate coffee — &something that I
always thought could not be found in Prague —
&from Graciano Cruz of Panama, accompanied by a
fat slice of spicy-sweet carrot cake.
拍照之后，我们来到附近的咖啡馆新秀“我的那杯咖啡”(Muj
Salek Kavy)，喝上一杯醇香的庄园咖啡——我没料到在布拉格也能享用到产自巴拿马格拉西诺克鲁斯(Graciano
Cruz)的咖啡——配以一大块香料味道浓郁甜美的胡萝卜蛋糕。
Then we headed back down Krizikova to a wine bar called Veltlin,
where we found a dark, intimate little salon and an array of
bottles with a surprising theme: all were sourced from the
winemaking regions of the former Austro-Hungarian empire, focusing
on the region’s most traditional varietals: Czech veltlinske zelene
as well as its better-known Austrian cousin, gr&
Zweigeltrebe from the Czech Republic’s M and
Zweigelts from Trentino, in northern Italy.
随后，我们回到科里奇科瓦街，去找一家叫“维特利纳”(Veltlin)的葡萄酒吧。这是个光线幽暗、紧致亲密的小沙龙，一整排瓶装葡萄酒都有同一个令人惊啧的主题：全部源自前奥匈帝国时期的葡萄酒产地，主藏这个区域最传统的葡萄酒种类——捷克绿维特利纳干白葡萄酒(veltlinske
zelene)，以及知名度更高的奥地利产的同种酒（名为gr&ner
veltliner）；除此，还有捷克共和国摩拉维亚葡萄酒产区的兹维干特拉白(Zweigeltrebe)，以及意大利北部特伦蒂诺(Trentino)产的同名酒兹维干拉(Zweigelts)。
Waiting for our glasses gave us a chance to catch our breath,
and Matej took a moment to send his wife, Chelsea, a text message.
When he’d finished, he said that he’d been repeatedly writing to
tell her how much Prague had changed, how different things were
from the last time they’d visited.
一下午的马不停蹄后，我们在等酒的空当稍事休息。马捷也赶快给他的妻子切尔西发短信。发完后，他说，他一直在不停地告诉妻子，布拉格发生了多大的变化，和他们上次一起来时，有多么多么的不同。
They were, I replied, but much of it seemed to depend on knowing
where to look. Lyckovo Namesti probably was Prague’s prettiest
square, but I doubted that it was featured on any postcards, which
usually picture bucket-list sights like the Charles Bridge and
Prague Castle. Most tourists — &even most locals —
&wouldn’t know how many things had changed in
Karlin, or even the very existence of the wine bar we were sitting
in, which had opened only
Muj Salek Kavy and
Red Hot Chilli were only a year older than that. Karlin itself was
well off the radar, though another mouse hole — a long tunnel
through the base of Vitkov Hill — &connected it to
Zizkov, exiting right next to the new hiking and cycling path I’d
discovered.
确实如此，我回答说，但相当程度上似乎取决于你是否知道该去哪儿。比如，利兹克沃广场也许是布拉格最美的广场，却似乎从未出现在布拉格风景明信片上——那上面通常只印有查理大桥、布拉格城堡等这种“必游景点”。大部分游客，甚至本地人，都不知道卡林地区发生了翻天覆地的变化，对我们现在所在的这家三个月前新开的葡萄酒吧全然不知，而“我的那杯咖啡”和“红辣椒”餐厅也只比这葡萄酒吧早开张一年左右。卡林整个地区都悄声无息，不为游人光顾，尽管就在我新发现的那条步行骑车小路旁，就有一条“老鼠洞”穿过维特科夫山(Vitkov)，将这里和薛斯高夫连接起来。
From there you could walk in seclusion almost all the way to Old
Town, where any number of hidden passageways spilled between the
old streets, and where any number of strange new discoveries were
yet to be found.
由此，你可以一路清清静静直抵旧城区。在那里，老街之间隐藏着的条条密道，以及一切新鲜怪异的景色，都在等着你去发现。
IF YOU GO: HOTELS
关于酒店（如果你要来布拉格的话）：
Prague’s 10-year mania for building new hotels finally appears
to be over. Despite the increased competition, the top three
high-end options have remained the same elegant troika as in
earlier years:
布拉格持续了十年的酒店修建狂潮终于告一段落。在酒店激烈的竞争中，排在前三名的高端酒店与前几年保持一致，依然是：
the Mandarin Oriental (Nebovidska 1;
420-233-088-888; ),
文华东方酒店(Mandarin Oriental)。地址：Nebovidska
1；电话：420-233-088-888；网站：/prague。
Rocco Forte’s Augustine (Letenska 33;
420-266-112-233; ),
罗科福尔蒂奥古斯汀酒店(Rocco Forte’s Augustine)。地址：Letenska
33；电话：420-266-112-233；网站：。
and the riverside Four Seasons (Veleslavinova
2a;&420-221-427-000;&).
以及位于河畔的四季酒店(Four Seasons)。地址：Veleslavinova
2a；电话：420-221-427-000；网站：/prague。
In November, a Web search found double rooms at the Four Seasons
starting at 295 euros, about $378 at $1.25 to the euro, without
breakfast.
2012年11月，网上显示的四季酒店双人房价格为295欧元起，合378美元（汇率以1欧元＝1.25美元计算），不含早餐。
More affordable and far quirkier is a new arrival, the
Fusion Hotel, which offers both
artsy, boutique-style rooms and dormlike group lodgings, with a
rotating ground-floor bar and two cool restaurants packed with
locals (Panska 9; 420-226-222-800; ). Doubles at 80
euros, including breakfast.
与此相比，更加实惠、风格也更古灵精怪的是一家名为“融” 的酒店(Fusion
Hotel)，既提供充满艺术气息的精致房间，也有宿舍式的多人间。一层设有旋转吧台，和两家本地人极为热衷的餐厅。地址：Panska
9；电话：420-226-222-800；网站：。双人间80欧元，含早餐。
EVAN RAIL, a frequent contributor to the Travel section, is the
author of the Kindle Singles “” and “.”&
Evan Rail长期为旅游版面供稿，是《啤酒为什么重要》(Why Beer Matters)和《宿醉赞歌》(In
Praise of Hangovers)的作者。
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